North and Middle Caicos, two islands in the Turks and Caicos archipelago that are largely overlooked by travelers to the islands, with the majority of vacationers hitting up the ever-popular Providenciales. I hope this post encourages you to take the path less travelled and, at the same time, discover some of the most beautiful beaches without another tourist in sight!

Location and How to Get There 

You will most likely be flying into Providenciales international airport, which is easily accessible from many US airport hubs and Europe. From the airport, grab a cab from outside the terminal to the Walkin marina where you can purchase ferry tickets to North Caicos. The main ferry is run by Caribbean Cruisin’ who operate a pretty reliable schedule between the two islands multiple times a day. A one way ticket will cost you $35, or a round trip for $65. The scenic journey to North Caicos takes just 30 minutes and it’s a pretty smooth ride. I believe there are private charter companies that can provide rides out of the advertised ferry hours but I’d try and stick with the ferry if you can. 

The ferry from Providenciales will drop you off at Bellefield Landing, which has been newly renovated and now there’s a number of shops, an information center and a decent restaurant (Hog Road Restaurant)  that we went to to grab breakfast before our boat ride home. 

Getting Around

Taxis on both North and Middle Caicos are few and far between (there are maybe 1800 total permanent residents on the two islands so it’s understandable why!). If you’d prefer to transit by taxi I recommend booking one in advance to meet you at the ferry port. 

Your best option would be to rent a car during your stay on the islands. There are multiple car rental companies that operate and will allow you to pick up your vehicle at the port in North Caicos – Easy Car Rental, Al’s Car Rental and Turquoise Rentals. If you visit in high season I recommend booking in advance, especially if you’re looking for a 4×4. Please note that due to the secluded location of the islands, most of the cars that you will rent will have minor issues – maybe a check engine light or a defective convertible roof – this is to be expected, just be sure to take pictures of your vehicle when you pick up the car. 

It is super easy to navigate around North and Middle Caicos – most destinations are never too far from the same main road. The causeway between North and Middle Caicos is of particular interest – and absolutely stunning! 

Where To Stay

Given the small population and small tourist pool that makes the journey to North and Middle Caicos, there aren’t tons of accommodation choices like you might find on Provo, but I guarantee you’ll find one that fits your travel style. We chose to stay at Dragon Cay Resort as they were running a summer special and rates were half what they usually are during peak season. There is also a restaurant onsite which was a great plus for us. 

$$$ Dragon Cay Resort – located just after the causeway into Middle Caicos, this hotel is made up of a number of vacation villas, from studios to larger family villas, all of which have air conditioning and kitchenettes so you can choose to make some of your own meals. The experience was more like an Airbnb, as we never had any interaction with the front desk, we were emailed the code the day before arriving and just went about our trip without any interference from reception. I believe if you needed assistance with excursions or watersports rentals that they would of course lend a hand, but to be honest we really enjoyed the hands off approach during our stay. Our bungalow was clean, tidy and had everything we needed for an extended stay. The covered outdoor porch was a great place to relax in the evening especially during some of the thunderstorms – it made for an entertaining evening watching the lightning!

$$ Pelican Beach Hotel – located on the shores of North Caicos and with an onsite bar and restaurant, this hotel has everything you need to make a memorable stay on the islands. 

$ Bottle Creek Lodge – this newly updated guest house sits in the perfect location for exploring the islands – at the south tip of North Caicos and just off the main road that links the two islands. The owners live onsite and are happy to provide recommendations during your stay. Bicycles and kayaks are also available for guests to use. 

There are also a number of vacation rentals available through Airbnb, VRBO and other rentals websites, ranging from small studios to expansive beachfront villas with private pools. We were originally booked into a gorgeous Airbnb that was oceanfront but in the end, we chose to stay at Dragon Cay due to the lack of air conditioning in the Airbnb – and as we were staying in the middle of summer, we really desired the AC to escape the high humidity and mosquitoes at night. 

WHERE TO EAT 

I was apprehensive before visiting that we’d struggle to find good food on the islands, never mind a restaurant that would actually be open. But boy, was I mistaken! We had some of the best food that we ate during our trip to Turks and Caicos from a tiny shack on an empty beach. 

• Windsor Creek Cafe – this was the best meal we had on the islands – located on Bambarra Beach in Middle Caicos and run by the famous Porsche, this small eatery is a must! The menu changes by what is available and what was caught by the local fishermen and all of it is fantastic! The “Draggies Rum Punch” is somewhat of a right of passage on the islands and something you must try during your visit. Having spent a lot of time in the Caribbean, I have a very refined palette when it comes to rum punch, but this one stole my prize for the best I’ve ever had! 

• Mudjin Bar and Grill – located at Dragon Cay Resort this restaurant has stunning views over Mudjin Harbour- get there early to get the best spot outside. When we visited it was open for lunch daily and only open for dinner on Wednesday evenings, but check their socials as I’m sure it’s subject to change. They had an excellent selection of menu items and a daily special which was a nice touch. I have to mention here that they had a great awareness of food allergies and dietary restrictions – something I was very much surprised about given the remoteness of the restaurant – and something I was very appreciative of! 

• My Dee’s Restaurant – located on the main thoroughfare, it would be hard to miss this one! Offering a range of fresh dishes, from whole fried fish, to shrimp and lobster. Be sure to visit on a Friday where they hold their famous BBQ night from 6.30pm – you might have to wait for a table but it’s worth it! 

• Parrot Ice Cream and Snow Cones – located in Bottle Creek, this small must-visit establishment boats a range of smoothies and snow cones, for just a few dollars. The perfect complement to any beach day! 

Things To Do 

• Go beach hopping – there’s no shortage of stunning beaches in North and Middle Caicos, and you’re guaranteed to be the only one on a few of them! Spend the day exploring some of the beautiful white sand beaches. Some of my favourites were:
  • Bambarra Beach 
  • Mudjin Harbour 
  • Wild Cow Run

• Fishing – the flats and bonefishing is pretty notable here, made famous by the crystal clear waters and the ability to wade out far into the waters. We were unlucky in catching anything on our trip, but it’s worth trying your luck for the chance of catching tarpon, bonefish or even barracuda! 

• Watersports – Given the large expanse of coastline, it would be silly not to mention the options to explore the islands on water – be it by kayak, stand up paddle board or kitesurfing. Most rentals or hotels on the island have non motorised equipment for you to use or rent during your stay. 

• Flamingo Pond –  located on the road between Whitby and Horsetable beach, this pond is aptly named due to the common abundance of West Indian Flamingos that can flock into the thousands! If you don’t see any during your visit, fear not, as they are often seen in other areas on the islands, most notably Montpellier Pond and Pumpkin Bluff pond.

• Conch Bar Caves – this is the largest cave system in the Bahamas/Turks and Caicos chain, and unfortunately due to vandalism, all visitors must be accompanied by a guide. The fee is $20 and must be paid in cash if you are paying on arrival, expect to spend about an hour on the tour. 

• Secret Staircase to hidden caves at Mudjin Harbour – this really took me by surprise but it really is a must visit on the island! If you follow the stone path along the top of the cliffs from the car park below Mudjin Grill you’ll notice that the stairs suddenly disappear into the rock! Bring a torch (or use your phone’s flashlight) and follow the staircase down and you’ll find a beautiful hidden cave that opens out onto a stunning stretch of beach, bordered by the towering limestone cliffs – trust me, it’s worth the perilous journey down! 

• Boat Tours and Excursions – if you’re short of time and can’t fit in an overnight stay on the islands, there are a number of tour companies operating from Providenciales that offer fully guided tours of the islands. 

EXTRA TIPS 

• Book your rental car ahead of time – as you can imagine, there aren’t too many vehicles on the island, and they got booked up fast! A family that was on the ferry with us failed to book a rental in advance and we’re dismayed to find out on their arrival to North Caicos that there were none available that day. 

• Bring some cash, especially if you plan on visiting some of the beach shacks. The smaller eateries are not equipped to handle credit cards so bring some cash just in case. There are also few ATMs on the island so I recommend getting cash out before you arrive on the islands, and as you could imagine, it would be more than a pain to drive from one of the remote beaches in Middle Caicos all the way to the top of North Caicos just to get money out (and then to find out its out of order! Which is often the case on islands such as these).

• If you happen to arrive or stay on a Sunday, please be aware that most restaurants will be closed so plan accordingly and maybe bring some food or snacks! 

• If you plan on cooking or making your meals during your stay, there are some small supermarkets on the islands but they might not have everything you are used to. If there is something specific you desire or if you have dietary restrictions, it might be worth stocking up in Providenciales before making the journey over. 

• You are on “island time” so the advertised open times of bars and restaurants can sometimes be viewed as a suggestion! It’s worth calling ahead if you are planning on visiting somewhere in particular. Service may take longer than you are used to, but what’s the hurry – relax, you’re on vacation!

You can find out more about my trip on my “North + Middle Caicos” Highlights on Instagram @chase.the.rainbows.

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