If there’s one thing you absolutely must do during your trip to Ushuaia (aside from ticking off the ultimate bucket list item of visiting Antarctica — but if that’s a little out of your budget), it’s visiting the penguin colony on Martillo Island in the Beagle Channel.

The best time to visit is between October and April, as it’s the penguins’ mating season, but you can see them year-round. During mating season, the island comes alive with activity, making it an especially fascinating time to visit.

There are plenty of tour companies offering similar excursions, and honestly, your hotel should be able to book one for you if they don’t already run their own. However, there’s only one tour company authorized to let visitors walk on the island with the penguins. This exclusive experience is offered through Piratour, but the prices reflect the privilege.

For a more budget-friendly option, I went with Terramar Tours. Their boat pulled right up to the island, and while we couldn’t disembark, we got within a few meters of the penguins on the shore — perfect for capturing some amazing photos.

If you’re a wildlife enthusiast or simply love the idea of seeing penguins in their natural habitat, this is an unforgettable experience you shouldn’t miss!

I stayed at Los Cauquenes Resort in Ushuaia (if you’re looking for the best place to stay, this is it – read my review here) and the original plan was to book their branded tour. While it’s more expensive than those offered in town, it’s conducted on a much smaller boat, which requires a minimum number of passengers to run. Unfortunately, they didn’t meet that number during my stay. Instead, the hotel booked me on a tour with Terramar, and I was very pleased with the entire experience they provided.

The hotel handled the booking, allowing us to add the cost to our final bill — super convenient. On the day of the tour, we took the hotel shuttle into town, exchanged our printed voucher for boat tickets at the Terramar booth, and headed to the port for embarkation. Fun fact: this is also where passengers bound for Antarctica depart! We saw plenty of people with massive suitcases, ready to cross the Drake Passage.

The boat leaves promptly at 9 a.m., and we were told to arrive by 8:15 a.m. However, the port doors didn’t open until 8:30 a.m. By then, there were several boats leaving on cruises, so it’s important to ensure you board the correct one. Your ticket will have the boat’s name, so double-check it! Arriving early is advisable if you want good seats, as you’re not allowed to switch once the boat sets off (you can get up and walk around but not swap seats).

We managed to snag seats at the front of the boat, which offered a great view of the path ahead. Even if you get middle seats, though, the views are still fantastic, and you can step outside as much as you like. Once we set off, the crew gave a quick safety briefing and outlined the itinerary for the day. The entire cruise lasted about five hours, so we were back at the port by 2 p.m.

The boat offered an impressive menu of drinks, snacks, and even gluten-free options. You simply order at the bar with your table number, and they deliver it to your seat. They also sold a souvenir pack for $40, which included 10 magnets, keychains, a license plate, and other keepsakes to remember your time at the end of the world.

Professional photographers were on board, snapping pictures of the passengers. At the end of the trip, you could view the photos on screens inside the cabin and decide whether to purchase prints or digital copies — no obligation to buy, so it’s worth letting them take your photo just in case!

The boat also had four bathrooms (two upstairs and two downstairs). Given the number of passengers, there was never much of a queue, and they stayed impressively clean for boat bathrooms.

All in all, it was a well-organized and enjoyable experience — a highlight of my time in Ushuaia!

Once we set off, we were given some history about the Beagle Channel and the animals we’d be seeing throughout the day. The announcements were made in both Spanish and English. Once the safety announcements were completed, we were allowed to go outside — and of course, we took full advantage to soak in the stunning scenery of the Beagle Channel. With the mountains of Chile on one side and Argentina on the other, it was absolutely breathtaking. Fun fact: the channel spans over 150 miles!

Our first stop was the iconic lighthouse, where we had the chance to see sea lions and various bird species. I’d never seen sea lions in the wild before, so it was such a thrilling experience! Some of the other guests got a bit pushy to snap their photos when we first arrived, but the boat makes a full circle around the lighthouse, so there are plenty of opportunities to capture those Instagram-worthy shots. I couldn’t believe how loud some of the sea lions were—it was such fun to watch them! After a few minutes, ensuring everyone had the photos they wanted, we moved on down the channel.

A quick tip: it’s very cold outside, even in the height of summer, especially with the wind. Be sure to pack a hat, gloves, and a warm coat to stay comfortable while enjoying the deck. To warm up after our sea lion encounter, we treated ourselves to drinks — coffee and Bailey’s for one of us, and hot chocolate and Bailey’s for the other.

As we cruised further down the channel, we passed numerous islands and shipwrecks, with the guides sharing fascinating tidbits about their history. If you’re outside, you likely won’t hear the announcements, but don’t let that deter you from enjoying the deck. If you feel cold and head inside, you’ll catch some interesting geography and history lessons instead.

The highlight of the trip was undoubtedly the visit to the penguin colony. About an hour before we arrived, the staff explained how the rotation system would work to ensure everyone got their turn at the front of the boat for pictures. The penguins would be near the front as the boat approached, and guests were asked to file in from the left-hand side, take their photos, enjoy the view, and then rotate to the right, allowing the next group to have their turn. This system worked surprisingly well and was a refreshing change from the chaos at the lighthouse earlier.

When we finally arrived, excitement rippled through the boat. Seeing penguins in the wild had always been a bucket list experience for me, and it did not disappoint! There were so many penguins, each going about their business — some lounging and sunbathing, others hopping in and out of the water, and a few curious ones even waddling up close to the boat. The boat rotated so that everyone got views from different angles, ensuring there were plenty of opportunities for the perfect shot. We spent about half an hour with the penguins, which seemed longer than the time other boats in the area stayed.

On the journey back, we celebrated checking off a bucket list item with a bottle of wine. We listened to more fascinating stories about the channel, including the pioneers who succeeded (and failed) in exploring this remote region.

By the time we returned to the port in Ushuaia, everyone was in high spirits. Those who wanted printed or digital pictures taken by the onboard photographers were encouraged to stay behind if they hadn’t already collected them. We disembarked with full hearts after such a memorable day.

I can’t recommend this tour enough, especially with TerramarTours, who seemed to spend more time at the penguin colony and run two navigations a day during summer—one at 9 a.m. and another at 3 p.m. Since it doesn’t get dark until after 10 p.m. in the summer months (the Northern Hemisphere’s winter), there’s plenty of daylight for the later cruise as well.

Are penguins on your bucket list? Ready to book a tour and see them for yourself? CLICK HERE

Looking for somewhere to stay while in Ushuaia? Read my review on Los Cauquenes Hotel and Spa, the only 5 star hotel on the Beagle Channel!

You can find out more about my stay on my “Argentina” Highlights on Instagram @chase.the.rainbows.

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