I booked this trip thinking it would be a laid-back sail with a couple of snorkel stops. I was wrong in the best possible way. It turned out to be three days full of fun, good food, new friends, turquoise water and endless laughter.

THE DAY BEFORE

I have to admit, every aspect of this trip was organised down to a tee. The communication before we ever set foot in Belize was second to none, and I felt exceptionally taken care of before the trip even began. In the emails beforehand, I had mentioned that I was gluten-free, and I was reassured more than once that no dietary restriction was too much trouble. I still had a little nagging worry that I might miss out on the delicious food I had read about in the reviews (spoiler alert: I could not have been more wrong).

In those same emails, and in a few reminders closer to the date, I was told there would be an orientation and briefing session the afternoon before departure. It was at 4 pm in their Caye Caulker office, and we were strongly encouraged to attend. There, we met the crew, went over the itinerary for the next few days, and had our expectations set for life at sea. We also confirmed all transfers for the end of the tour, as it finishes in a completely different place from where it starts (more on that later).

We were given a double-sided sheet with guidelines and information about the tour — really just to make sure everyone was on the same page. I also got to meet my fellow passengers, a mix of families, couples, friends, and solo travellers. It looked like the perfect blend of personalities, and I was right. If you do not bring your own snorkel gear, you will be measured for it at the orientation, so it is worth arriving a little early to avoid the mad rush. You can also settle your final bill and have any lingering questions answered. That night, I went to bed giddy with anticipation and more than ready to get out on the water the next day.

A NOTE ON LUGGAGE

This seemed to confuse a few people in our group, but it is actually very straightforward. I think the confusion came from the fact that many were travelling around Belize for several weeks and had big rolling suitcases with them. Honestly, it is not a problem. My advice is to pack as little as possible for the sailing portion, and set aside whatever you will not need for those three days at sea.

If you do not have two separate bags, the staff will give you a bin bag for the items you do not need, and it will be stowed on the boat. I had a small backpack for my overnight things and my carry-on rollerboard was tucked away. Any larger bags you will not need are stowed about an hour before sailing. Overnight bags are kept in the galley, so you can access them easily.

I also brought a very small waterproof bag that I kept with me while we were sailing. It had my sunscreen, towel, sunglasses, and phone in it, which saved me from constantly going back and forth to the galley every time I needed to reapply sunscreen (which, as you can imagine on a sailboat in the Caribbean, was pretty often).

DAY 1: WE LEFT CAYE CAULKER AND SAID GOODBYE TO THE REAL WORLD

The night before, during our briefing, we were told to meet the staff at the office with any bags we wanted stowed away until the end of the trip. We handed them over to the crew the next morning, then headed off for breakfast before our 8:30 am departure. Our hotel, Sea Dreams, served breakfast and was only a five-minute walk from the Ragga office, so that was the obvious choice. Still, if you want one last recommendation before sailing away, Ice N Beans or El Paradiso are both excellent options — this will be the last meal you are responsible for until the trip ends.

We boarded a little after 8:30 am and got a quick safety and welcome briefing from our captain, Ish, before heading out with nothing but turquoise water ahead. I am not exaggerating when I say we were barely fifteen minutes into the trip when dolphins started leaping alongside the boat. It felt like the ocean was rolling out the red carpet for us. The bar was set ridiculously high right at the start, and somehow it only went up from there.

The weather was perfect, and with favourable winds we shaved nearly an hour off the usual three-hour sail to our first snorkelling spot. We were split into groups and assigned a crew member for our guided snorkel. All fins and masks were already labelled and ready for us, making it easy to find our gear. The underwater world was buzzing with life — schools of colourful fish, eels weaving through coral, nurse sharks gliding by, and bright patches of reef. Some of the crew also caught an octopus and a spider crab while spearfishing, which would be on the menu that night.

When we climbed back on board, lunch was waiting: chicken, rice and beans, potato salad, and banana bread. You will not go hungry on this trip, trust me. We then sailed for another couple of hours toward our overnight spot, Rendezvous Caye, a tiny island of white sand and palm trees. Along the way, trolling lines were cast out, and we caught a small barracuda for our chef, Linthon, to prepare for dinner.

Arriving at Rendezvous Caye felt like stepping into a postcard. We grabbed our overnight bags, got a quick orientation, and watched a demonstration on how to set up our sleeping quarters for the night — tents. My tent-track record from school trips is littered with broken poles and stubborn zips, so I was relieved to find these were the easiest tents I had ever assembled. The crew suggested pitching in spots that would catch a breeze but avoid heavy sea spray, and provided thick, surprisingly comfortable sleeping pads. For anyone without a pillow, the clever trick was to fold the end of the pad over for a makeshift headrest.

The tents were three-person size, which meant they were perfect for two people and a couple of backpacks. We were given two sheets each — one fitted over the pad and one to sleep under. Once our little canvas homes were ready, we had the option of joining the captain for another guided snorkel or exploring on our own. We chose to snorkel just offshore, where a deep channel teemed with marine life. Rays were everywhere, some coming so close to shore you could almost pat them like puppies.

While the crew worked their magic on dinner, the rum punch started flowing. We all settled on the sand to watch the sunset behind the boat, the sky painted in reds and pinks with the occasional ray gliding past. Practical note: while this first night is camping, there are flushing toilets on the island — two for women and one for men. After dark, flushing is done manually using water from a bucket placed outside each stall.

Dinner at 6:30 pm was served on the dock and was an absolute feast: corn on the cob, green beans, coconut rice, coconut shrimp curry, pineapple chicken, pasta with beef, fresh fish with onions and peppers, catch of the day, and a crisp green salad. Considering our chef was working in a galley the size of a wardrobe in Caribbean heat, the quality and variety of the food was nothing short of amazing.

After dinner, the real fun began. The crew introduced us to a few drinking games, and soon the coconut rum was flowing freely. We laughed, swapped stories, and enjoyed the kind of easy camaraderie that only happens when you are miles from anywhere. Eventually, we wandered back to our tents, hearts full from the day’s adventures and ready to do it all over again in the morning.

DAY 2: SNORKELS, SEA TURTLES AND RUM-SOAKED SUNSETS

I woke up to the sound of waves… and possibly someone snoring in a nearby tent. I will be honest, I did not sleep brilliantly, but that was to be expected — it is all part of the adventure. We had left the tent door open, but the breeze completely disappeared after sunset, so there was no relief from the heat. We still managed a few hours of shut-eye, though some guests decided to skip the tents altogether and slept on loungers or chairs by the shore. Honestly, they might have been onto something.

As the sun came up, the crew was already prepping drinks for us — coffee, tea, or even Ovaltine from a big canister of hot water. I had not expected a decent cup of coffee on a deserted island, so this felt like a luxury. One by one, people emerged from their tents, and we started breaking them down and packing our bags for another day at sea. By 8 am, we were all ready, the island was cleared, and we were back on the boat.

Breakfast was waiting: crispy bacon, scrambled eggs (with veggies or without), fresh fruit… the works. Fueled up, we headed for more snorkelling spots, where the highlights included sea turtles, graceful rays, and a kaleidoscope of fish. The crew’s system of labelling all your snorkel gear meant you never had to hunt for the right fins — you got the same ones each time, and they fit just right. As before, we were split into small groups, each led by a crew member who pointed out everything from camouflaged fish to coral gardens. A couple of staff stayed on the boat (usually the chef prepping our next meal) in case anyone wanted to sit out.

Lunch was a laid-back buffet of hot dogs, sliced meats, fish, salads, and plenty of vegetables so you could build your own sandwich or pile up a plate of goodness.

Our destination for the night was Tobacco Caye, an island I had visited a few years earlier and could not wait to see again. Before docking, we stopped at one last snorkelling spot, then headed in to get settled. Accommodation options included a bunk in the dorms or, for an extra $100, a private cabin with an ensuite bathroom. We went for the private cabin and were assigned to Joe Joe’s on the Reef, one of the two hotels used for guests (the other being Windward).

The rooms at Joe Joe’s are simple but have electricity, running hot and cold water, and Wi-Fi. No air conditioning, but a fan does a decent job. Most people showered and changed before meeting up at Windward’s bar for drinks. It is cash only, but the cocktails are mixed to perfection and it is a great place to socialise. Plus, if you have reached your limit with rum punch, you can get something a little fancier.

Dinner was served just after sunset, and it topped the previous night’s feast in one glorious way — lobster. Every single guest was served a freshly grilled lobster tail smothered in garlic butter. It was the kind of meal you keep thinking about long after it is gone. We ate under the stars, reggae playing in the background, laughing with new friends and soaking in the fact that this was real life. Another perfect day in paradise.

DAY 3: GOODBYE ISLANDS, HELLO DANGRIGA (AND CIVILISATION)

We were told we would be setting sail between 8 and 9 am, with the option to make a hot drink beforehand at the Ragga meeting point. Freshly showered, slightly more rested, and clinging to our last hours of island life, we gathered and boarded for our final day aboard the Ragga Phoenix.

Breakfast was another feast: homemade fry jacks with jams, hard-boiled eggs, bacon, stewed chicken, avocado, fresh fruit, and yoghurt with granola. Once everyone was happily full, we set our course for South Water Caye, where we would enjoy one last snorkelling stop before the day’s celebrations. And wow — they really had saved the best for last. The water was alive with colourful fish, healthy corals, and all sorts of marine life. As always, we split into small groups with the crew so they could point out the hidden gems we might otherwise have missed.

When we climbed back on board, the music was turned up, the rum punch appeared, and the farewell party began. We anchored in shallow, impossibly blue water near South Water Caye — the kind of blue that looks edited even in real life. The depth was perfect for standing without treading water, so the entire boat emptied into the sea. Captain Ish emerged with his “Floating Bar,” handing out rum punches and rum shots like a Caribbean Santa Claus. We spent a couple of glorious hours here, drinking, laughing, and soaking up every last drop of sunshine.

Eventually, we clambered back on board for lunch and began the sail toward Tobacco Caye. The party did not slow down — the music kept playing, the drinks kept flowing, and the mood was pure joy. When we reached the island, the crew handed us our luggage and we all said our goodbyes. It was hard to part ways with such a fantastic group of people after an unforgettable few days at sea.

From Tobacco Caye, local fishermen shuttled us to Dangriga in their boats, as the Ragga Phoenix would be making the slower return to Caye Caulker with just the crew. Our boat managed to break down a couple of times on the way (is it even a proper island-hopping trip without a minor mechanical hiccup?), but we eventually made it — only an hour behind the first group.

In Dangriga, we all went our separate ways, armed with new friendships and memories that will last a lifetime. Our pre-arranged hotel transfer never showed up, but in true Belizean spirit, we managed to hitch a ride with a friendly taxi driver who was happy to drop us off on his way.

THE CREW: EQUAL PARTS PIRATE, CHEF, AND COMEDIAN

The Ragga crew deserves their own standing ovation. They’re part tour guide, part entertainer, part superhero — and somehow also part mind reader. They fish, cook, tell jokes, rescue wayward snorkelers, and keep a boatload of sunburned tourists happy and well-fed in the middle of the Caribbean Sea.

So here’s to Captain Ish, Chef Linthon, Kenny, Roque, Rashel, Malik, and Ish Jr — absolute legends, every single one of them. They didn’t just get us from A to B, they made the journey the best part of the trip. 10/10, would book with them again in a heartbeat.

WHAT TO PACK (AND WHAT I REGRET BRINGING)

No one told me I’d need THAT many dry bags. Here’s what I packed, what I wish I packed, and what I definitely didn’t need.

PACK:

– Reef-safe sunscreen (lots of it, at least factor 50, the Belizean sun is brutal and being out on the water you get even more UV exposure when it reflects off the water 

– Swimsuits (plural) – plan to wear a new one each day, just because mine never really dried and I don’t think there’s too many things worse than putting on a wet swimsuit

– Dry bag (essential for electronics and anything you don’t want to get wet on the boat); I also brought a number of these bags that not only are good for organization but are pretty water resistant too, so i put wet swim gear in one, and my electronics, cables and power banks in another

– Microfiber quick dry towel – I WILL RAVE ABOUT THIS ONE for the rest of my life, I have it in four different colours and it comes with me on every trip. Period. It dries insanely fast, does not smell, is super compact and lightweight and it’s a must for this trip! 

– Dramamine if your stomach’s not a fan of boats

– Power banks – in reality, you’ll only have one night without somewhere to charge your devices, as there is both electricity and wifi on Tobacco Caye, but it’s good to be prepared (and I don’t know about you, but my phone’s battery doesn’t last very long at all, especially when I use it to take pictures and videos – which you will not be short of things to photograph on this trip!) 

– Mosquito Repellent – despite many reviews saying there were no bugs on the islands we were staying on, I definitely got bitten on Tobacco Caye, I believe by sand flies, so just be prepared and spray up especially at dawn and dusk 

– Rashguards or swim shirts – this was the best thing i packed with me, I wore them snorkeling and on the boat when I felt my shoulders and back needed a break from the sun 

– Wear a pair of flip flops – you’ll have to drop them off in a bag before you get on the boat so you won’t really be wearing them much on the trip, besides on Tobacco Caye where you’ll get to be reunited with them briefly! 

– Two days of outfits, think breezy, lightweight shorts and tshirts mainly. You’ll be in swimwear for most of the day but when you arrive on the islands you might want to just throw something on! 

– Small travel size shampoo and conditioner – while there’s no showers on Rendezvous Caye, you’ll get the opportunity for a shower on Tobacco Caye, but there likely won’t be any complimentary toiletries – bring some travel size ones and you’ll be all set! 

– Hat for the sun

– Travel pillow (optional) – I brought one and I’m actually really glad I did – it was a godsend on the first night however they do take up precious space, mine was fairly compact but if you’re short on space, skip it and just use rolled up clothes as a pillow 

– Electrolytes – I brought a whole pack of electrolytes with me that I made sure I was consuming throughout the day. The crew encourages you to drink a lot of water during the trip, with being out in the sun all day it’s so easy to get dehydrated (or sun stroke), add on the copious rum punch and you see how it could turn out not so fun for you; pack smart and bring some!

WHAT I WISH I PACKED:

• Portable battery operated fan – while you’re on the boat you’ll get the breeze so you don’t really get too overheated but on land, especially on Rendezvous Caye I’d have loved if I had remembered to bring my portable fan that I could have hung from the tent at night 

WHAT I DIDN’T NEED

• Snacks – I was totally unaware to just how well they were going to feed us on this trip; we had some of the best food I’ve had in Belize! Having dietary restrictions (gluten free) always makes me a little apprehensive and I always pack extra snacks in case there’s something I can’t eat – but I needn’t have! Chef Linthon totally took care of me and made sure I could eat almost everything that was served to us all! And if you get hungry between meals, don’t be afraid to ask the chef for a snack! 

IS THIS TRIP FOR YOU? HERE’S THE BRUTAL TRUTH

You’ll love this if:

• You enjoy snorkeling, sailing, stargazing, and not checking your emails
• You don’t mind being without a shower for a night or sleeping in a tent
• You think 3 days without Wi-Fi sounds like freedom, not torture

You’ll hate it if:

• You’re a light sleeper who needs A/C and room service
• You can’t live without TikTok
• Sand in your sheets is a deal-breaker

HOW TO BOOK IT (AND A FEW TIPS TO MAKE IT EVEN BETTER)

• The 3-day / 2-night sailing adventure departs from Caye Caulker every Tuesday and Friday and ends in Dangriga — so plan your onward route accordingly. You can’t stay aboard to return to Caye Caulker. If you’re heading back to the northern cayes, you’ll need to book a flight from Dangriga Airport with Tropic Air or Maya Air.
• Cabana upgrades are limited, so book early if you’d like one. They include a private ensuite bathroom, hot and cold running water, and electricity.
• Bring cash for tips (the crew definitely earns them!) and for any drinks or extras on Tobacco Caye. You may also need to pay your sailing deposit in cash. Both USD and Belizean dollars are accepted, but if using USD, make sure the bills are clean and undamaged.
• To book, just send a quick email to info@raggasailing.com — they’re super helpful and respond quickly. The organisation and communication I received, even before setting foot on the boat, was seriously impressive.

TIPS AND TRICKS

If you’re continuing your trip in Belize after the tour, don’t plan on wearing anything you wore during the tour. Trust me—none of my clothes ever really dried. They just stayed… perpetually “slightly damp,” like a sad towel at a beach rental. Do yourself a favor and pack a spare set of clothing and swimwear for the next leg of your adventure. Future-you will thank you.

Book your onward journey from Dangriga in advance—and make sure it includes a pickup from where the boat drops you off. Let the Ragga office know before you set sail so they can coordinate with transfer providers, especially if there’s a last-minute change to the port location or a delay. Extra taxis aren’t always a sure thing, and nobody wants to be that traveler standing around with soggy luggage and no ride.

If you have dietary restrictions or allergies, let them know ahead of time (ideally when you book). They’re great about accommodating most needs, but it’s much easier for them if they know far in advance—especially if they need to hunt down special ingredients. No one wants to be the person watching everyone else eat fresh lobster while you nibble on plain lettuce.

FINAL THOUGHTS: WOULD I DO IT AGAIN?

Absolutely (but With More Sunscreen)

This trip was wild, weird, and wonderful in all the right ways. I came home with new friends, great memories, and 287 blurry GoPro clips of fish. Would I recommend it? 110%. The only other thing I’ve been that sure about was adopting our chaotic, slightly ridiculous dog — and honestly, this trip might have been less work.

You can find out more about my stay on my “BELIZE 7” Highlights on Instagram @chase.the.rainbows.

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